Together, naturally' was a fitting headline to Rome's 1st Biofiera - Organic Trade Fair - held at Piramide in southern Rome. The crowd was predominantly local, though the organizers were also keen to attract foreign attention, basing the event a stone's throw away from the UN Food and Agriculture Organization.

For many, Italy is the home of the horn of plenty: the epitome of fine food and fresh produce. People are less aware, though, about the time, money and energy spent by Italy's regions in maintaining farming traditions and holding back the wave of junk food - and GM products - sweeping in from the USA. Not that our American friends represent the Great Satan of the dinner table, but the accent is very much on quality in and around the capital. Unadulterated quality.

Lazio, the region surrounding Rome, has impressive organic credentials: almost 2,750 firms covering 70,000 hectares, equal to 10 per cent of regional farmland. All this the fruit of laws designed to keep Lazio a GM free zone. Decisions driven by producers and consumers seeking a healthier and more balanced lifestyle, declares Pierro Marrazzo, President of the region of Lazio. Taking this one step further, a new law is on the table to ban GM products in the region's numerous restaurants.

Organic Showcase
The stands were overflowing with award-wining organic products: notably wine, cheese, and olive oil. Also on offer were 'green' books, seminars on herbal medicine, children's activities (games, shows, cartoons, food education and a special organic picnic), debates and meetings, live music and screenings, vending machines with organic fruit and unpasteurised milk, as well as 150 varieties of organic sweets. To this add an organic restaurant managed by regional wine shop 'Palatium'.

The 'Istituto Tecnico Agrario Statale', based on the outskirts of Rome, was one of many organizations promoting not only fine organic products but also a whole way of life. This secondary school provides vocational training, as part of a wider curriculum, for teenagers seeking a career in organic farming. The stand was among the liveliest at the fair, and their vino rosso 'barricato' - aged in vanilla/oak caskets - comes highly recommended at a remarkably low price. Their wine is produced on a 30 hectares plot that also yields olive oil, honey, ornamental plants, grain and artichokes.

Another highlight was the cooperative 'Agricoltura Capodarco' (see picture), based at Grottaferrata on the hills above Rome. This farm comprises an organic restaurant, picnic park, farmhouse tours for primary schools, and an organic shop with honey, wine, olive oil, fruit and vegetables.

The highlight for many though was the 'Festa del Vino - Novello Latino' late on Sunday afternoon. This young local wine is blessed with an intense colour and strong primary aromas. It's a robust, dark and fruity wine best drunk within six months. Since Novello cannot be sold before 6 November, this was also a sneak preview for wine-aficionados - accompanied, according to tradition, by whole roasted chestnuts.

Howard Hudson,
6 November 2006